Warwicks Wander Our Great South Land: Part 8—From Geraldton to Ballinyoo Bridge by Steve

Friday, 13^th September dawned, the day for us to leave Geraldton Caravan Park and head towards Northampton, which we explored. After taking photos of lots of colourful sheep and St Mary’s Catholic Church, which was designed by Monsignor Hawes to reflect spirituality, we had a light lunch that included a giant mug of coffee.

Some Sheep in Northampton

Outside the Hairdresser Salon, Northampton

Outside the Newsagent (or should that be Ewesagent), Northampton

St Mary's Catholic Church, Northampton

Sheep Dog on Everlasting Duty, Northampton

Sheep Dog, Northampton

There was a hairdresser next door that advertised walk-ins being available, so Val checked on that while we were waiting for food. Then she went in and had her hair cut for $34, which is much cheaper than back home. I asked the hairdresser about all the sheep around and she replied that it was so people who drive through town will make a ewe-turn to come back and have a better look. We picked up a cold drink from IGA, where I had previously used the ATM, and then headed on towards the Principality of Hutt River. Prince Graeme was standing on the steps of the administrative centre to welcome us and explain something of the history while trying to flog souvenirs. He was very pleasant. For two nights we paid a total of $20 ($5 per person per night), and this included flushing toilets and hot showers. After our cuppa and while Val was on the computer I went for a walk through the various buildings—museum, chapel, etc. I did some hill sprints from the caravan parking area up to the sheds and then had a much appreciated hot shower. We were the only ones there so it was a very quiet night.

It was Saturday, but there would be no parkrun for, yet again, there was nothing within cooee of us. After watching the moon begin to settle in the west from our camping spot we drove to Kalbarri NP to visit the Natural Window at Murchison Gorge. At the entry station the ranger on duty told us that it would be 41^o today. Once we had taken the obligatory photos through the Natural Window, and watch a young Asian sitting on an overhanging rock, we walked down to the river itself for some more photos. What a beautiful spot it was down by the river. Dragonflies and Damselflies were hovering around the water's edge. Moths and native bees rested on flowers. There was the stark contrast of brightly coloured flowers growing in red sand. The cliffs on the other side of the river were alive with colour. After a short walk along part of a sandy track we began the slow walk back up to the top with the temperature continuing to rise by the hour.

Moon Setting in the West, Principality of Hutt River

Moth, Kalbarri Gorge

Val enjoying a walk in the Park.

Flower, Kalbarri Gorge

Daisy, Kalbarri Gorge

Moth, Kalbarri Gorge

Damselfly, Kalbarri Gorge

Natural Window, Kalbarri Gorge

Native Bee, Kalbarri Gorge

Murchison River, Kalbarri Gorge

We ignored the Z Bend, because of the heat and having been there before, and drove back into Kalbarri where we had our sandwich in the park before then going to get ourselves a coffee. We stopped at some of the lookouts on the way back home and had wonderful views of the coastline that was the graveyard of a number of ships. There is some speculation that one of the Dutch ships that came to grief here might have had survivors, judging by some of the artefacts found, but there is no recorded history of what happened. Did they intermingle with the local Aboriginal people? We’ll never know, but I found myself wishing that I could travel back in time to observe what had happened and provide a written history. Wildflowers were still in abundance—more so beside the road than in the NP itself. Shingleback lizards wandered off the road, where they were warming themselves. Raptors soared effortlessly on the thermals in search of their next meal. That night the moon was gloriously alive with colour as it hung low on the horizon.

Moon Rise, Principality of Hutt River

Not only did we miss out on parkrun on Saturday but on Sunday there was no way we could attend a local church, and I certainly didn’t want to go into the chapel that was part of the Principality of Hutt River. We left a bit after 10 am and made our way towards Galena Bridge on the Murchison River, which is a free 24 hour camping spot. The car air conditioner wasn’t working so Val, especially, found the drive quite hot. By getting there early it meant that we were able to get a spot by the river for we found this to be such a popular spot that many others pulled in as well. Once we were set up we sat around for a while because it was hot and two of the windows kept blowing shut in the strong winds. As Val sat outside I walked with my camera and took quite a few photos of dragonflies and birds. Later in the afternoon we went for a walk and the bush flies were a real nuisance. Apart from that it is a great spot, the only drawback being the limit of 24 hours. We would have stayed longer if possible.

Dragonfly, Galena Bridge

Dragonflies, Galena Bridge

Dragonfly, Galena Bridge

White-necked Heron, Galena Bridge

Dragonfly, Galena Bridge

Lizard, Galena Bridge

Australasian grebe, Galena Bridge

Zebra Finch, Galena Bridge

Dragonfly, Galena Bridge

Zebra Finch, Galena Bridge

Lizard, Galena Bridge

Leaving Galena Bridge we made our way northward, with the possible intention of stopping at Billabong Roadhouse with its free overnight parking. The road up to there was like riding the ocean swells as we made our way through rolling farmland and plenty of bushland. It was getting hotter as the morning wore on and to keep cool we had to have the windows down as in our childhood days before the installation of car air conditioners. It certainly made a difference. We stopped at the Nerren Nerren Rest Area for a cuppa. A busload of mainly Asian tourists pulled up while we were there. We had our cuppa and then, after almost an hour, we were on our way again. We refuelled at the Billabong Roadhouse, which was so much cheaper than the nearby Shell, and parked over the road to get ourselves a coffee and lunch. I had grilled fish and chips while Val had a salmon wrap. We decided to change our minds again—that’s the advantage of not having a tight schedule to follow—and opted to drive eastwards towards Murchison Oasis Caravan Park. Almost the entire way, once we left the highway, was on gravel road, though I would hesitate to use the word “gravel” for most of it because of the red sandy nature of the road. Even so, there was a warning sign for caravan drivers that read “Proceed with Caution”.

Butchers Track

The 140+ km road, called Butchers Track, was maintained by the shires of Shark Bay and Murchison and both have done a great job. I preferred the sandier road in the Shire of Shark Bay to the remainder of the road, though the section maintained by the Shire of Murchison had more warning signs. Wildflowers continued to abound. The greens were a patchwork of colours. The sandy road was red but only twice did I change from 2H to 4L and that was because it was a bit looser and more corrugated up those hills. Apart from that and some corrugations it was great to drive on. Wildlife abounded along the side of the road.

Monitor, Butchers Track

Only once in almost 3 hours did we strike any traffic and that was when a caravan was coming towards us and a camper trailer overtook us—and that was both of them at the same time. Oh, there was one other time just before we turned onto the Mullewa-Carnarvon road but he stayed behind us until we turned south and I let him go. It certainly was interesting watching the billowing clouds of dust behind us as we drove, even though I could hardly see anything at all behind us. Getting towards the end of Butchers Track we passed through a lot of gibber that was a flood plain. As we drove into Murchison Settlement there was a sign advising visitors that the only water available was non-potable as it was bore water that was heavily affected by various minerals in the ground. However, I’m sure that in previous generations people would have been forced to drink it. While we booked a non-powered site for the night I asked for the free coffee that was made available for the driver—though it was instant coffee. We were told that the Shire of Murchison is the only council in Australia not to be in a town, and there are only around 20 people who live there, depending upon to whom you are talking. After setting up, and while the sun was getting lower in the west, I went for a run around what I later discovered to be the polocrosse grounds, where a tournament is held every July, doing a speed session that included 4x 150m in under 4:30/k. I could feel my hamstring a bit so I wasn’t prepared to do any more of them. After a lovely shower it was time to sit under the stars to have our dinner and relax for a while before heading inside a hot van to sleep.

The next morning we sat outside to have our cuppa and pray and we had almost finished praying when an older fellow came across to talk. He was looking after the museum for a few weeks before returning to Perth to play masters hockey. After getting ourselves dressed we went to the roadhouse for breakfast and a coffee before again heading south towards Ballinyoo Bridge on the Murchison River. It was only a short distance but we had a number of stops for photos—a carpet of yellow flowers beside the road; an old well dating from 1966; and then the rebuilt E. T. Hooley Stock Route Well 9 and the nearby Historic Shepherds’ Stock Yard. We saw a soaring raptor being chased by a very small bird before reaching Ballinyoo Bridge.

A carpet of Yellow

Moth

Old 1966 Well

The rebuilt E. T. Hooley Stock Route Well 9

Old Bucket from the rebuilt E. T. Hooley Stock Route Well 9

The rebuilt E. T. Hooley Stock Route Well 9

Historic Shepherds’ Stock Yard

We weren’t sure where the camping area was so we parked near the lower bridge that is for wider vehicles and walked until we found it. What a spot it turned out to be as we were able to camp on the cliffs above the Murchison River and enjoy the abundant birdlife. There was a Willie Wagtail nest with a couple of very small young on a branch sticking out of the water near the lower bridge crossing and then a Whistling Kite nest across the river from our camping spot with a young one in it. As you can imagine, I took way too many photos which will put me even further behind in my editing and naming. There was also an abundance of flies. We had lunch inside a hot van before I went for a walk downstream.

Campsite, Murchison River, Ballinyoo Bridge

Willie Wagtail, Ballinyoo Bridge

Lizard, Ballinyoo Bridge

Black-faced Woodswallow, Ballinyoo Bridge

Whistling Kite, Ballinyoo Bridge

White-plumed Honeyeater

White-browed Babbler, Ballinyoo Bridge

Rosy Dock, Ballinyoo Bridge

Whistling Kite chick, Ballinyoo Bridge

White-plumed Honeyeater, Ballinyoo Bridge

Mulga Parrot (male), Ballinyoo Bridge

Welcome Swallow, Ballinyoo Bridge

Black-fronted Dotterel, Ballinyoo Bridge

Cow, Ballinyoo Bridge

Zebra Finch, Ballinyoo Bridge

Australasian Pippit, Ballinyoo Bridge

Mulga Parrot (male), Ballinyoo Bridge

Mulga Parrot (female), Ballinyoo Bridge

Mulga Parrot (male), Ballinyoo Bridge

Whistling Kite, Ballinyoo Bridge

We decided that as this was such a lovely spot that we would stay an extra day—even if it did mean that we might miss Moora parkrun on Saturday. I will find that hard but it is something that will become fairly regular once we are out in the middle of the Outback later on in our travelling this vast land.

Sunrise, Ballinyoo Bridge

After our cuppa and prayer time I went for my run. It was going to be RunClub but I changed my mind after a warm up and did four loops that crossed both Ballinyoo Bridge and the wider low-level bridge beside it. It meant that I didn’t get 20 Out/20 Back but I came close to the required time. I was a bit concerned with my hamstring, hoping that it would hold up as I ran each kilometre faster, starting with 5:48 and finishing with 5:11. I thought that my legs were still a bit leaden after Monday evening’s Speed Session and so was quite pleased at the times I managed, but I will need to take it easier for a couple of days. My cool down was very slow and then after breakfast we went for a walk upstream and found another active Whistling Kite nest with a young inside it. These birds are beautiful to behold and the young are just so cute as they poke their heads up out of their nest—however, they are vicious birds that, in order to survive, catch lizards and mammals and snatch baby birds from their nests, tearing them apart while still alive to feed themselves and their young.

Whistling Kite, Ballinyoo Bridge

Whistling Kite Chick, Ballinyoo Bridge

Bottle Brush, Ballinyoo Bridge

Whistling Kite, Ballinyoo Bridge

Murchison River, Ballinyoo Bridge

The flies were again becoming a nuisance when we are outside—and even inside when they hitch a ride on our backs or sneak in when the door is open. The rest of the day was spent in quietly sitting around as we enjoyed the sounds and sights of the variety of birdlife. Early in the afternoon the wind came up again, so we decided to take the awning down before we headed off to bed that night, which also saved it from getting wet from a heavy dew like we had last night.